Organic Gems

Pearls, amber, coral and jet: gems born of living things, colored by organic molecules, layers of nacre and pigments.

Each gem in four tones: its main color, its light part, its deepest part and the flash or glow that sets it apart. The colors are our own approximations, not laboratory standards.

5 gems20 colors

Pearl

Natural or cultured

Its most familiar colors are white and cream, a light yellowish brown; black, gray and silver are also fairly common, and the palette reaches every hue.

Pearl color has three parts: the bodycolor; one or more translucent overtones, pink, green, purple or blue; and orient, an iridescent shimmer born of light interfering in alternating layers of aragonite and conchiolin. Here the sparkle is its pink overtone.

Pearl · hue

Pearl · light

Pearl · deep

Pearl · sparkle

Dark cultured pearl

French Polynesia · Pinctada margaritifera

The saltwater cultured pearls of French Polynesia, sometimes called black pearls, have a wide range: gray, black or brown, with blue, green, purple or pink overtones.

They are grown in the oyster Pinctada margaritifera (GIA). Here the sparkle is a green overtone.

Dark pearl · hue

Dark pearl · light

Dark pearl · deep

Dark pearl · sparkle

Amber

Fossilized tree resin

Sap from ancient trees that hardened and fossilized tens of millions of years ago. It can be white, yellow and orange to reddish brown; reddish amber is the most valuable.

Its honey to yellow tones come from delocalized electrons in its organic molecules (Gems & Gemology). It oxidizes and changes color over time, and can be modified by heat and dye: according to CIBJO, it is commonly heated.

Amber · hue

Amber · light

Amber · deep

Amber · sparkle

Coral

Colored by polyenic pigments

Its pink and red come from polyenic pigments: unmethylated in the genus Corallium, carotenoids in Stylaster (Gems & Gemology, 2009).

Natural-color pink to red coral has become scarce for environmental and legal reasons, and more and more dyed coral reaches the market (GIA, 2007).

Coral · hue

Coral · light

Coral · deep

Coral · sparkle

Jet

Lignite

A hard type of lignite coal, uniformly black or dark gray, that takes a high polish.

According to CIBJO, it is never treated; it is also called gagat.

Jet · hue

Jet · light

Jet · deep

Jet · sparkle

Pigmentoria is an independent color atlas. Gem, variety, place and trade names (for example «pigeon's blood» or «Paraíba») are used descriptively only and do not indicate the origin, quality, treatment or certification of any stone. The colors are our own digital approximations, not official standards of any laboratory. GIA, CIBJO, LMHC, SSEF, Gübelin and the other organisations cited belong to their owners; Pigmentoria is not affiliated with or endorsed by them.